Saturday, 11 February 2017

Acting on an RICS Homebuyer Report

Before Christmas I found myself on the receiving end of the RICS Homebuyer Report commissioned by the intended purchasers of our home of 27 years. I had not seen one before because, although I am a surveyor, house surveys are best dealt with by active specialists who do this sort of work regularly. I have spent a lot of time over the last five years dealing with repairs and decoration to present our house as well as possible but I knew that the surveyor would need to find some issues to make his report worthwhile and I was unlikely to have covered everything.

The standard report is a good document, with enough flexibility for a proper range of dwelling types and ages. The surveyor (60s, like me, tweed jacket, brown brogues, red Alfa Romeo 156) was at the house for perhaps three hours and his report, passed on by the purchasers, included lots of useful information, some of which came from questions during the inspection. The purchasers asked if we would be prepared to install a chimney cowl, some additional air bricks and to re-bed and re-point the copings to the boundary wall. The time of year is not ideal for such works but I agreed that we would do them, rather than risk a reduction of the price at greater cost; had already having taken nine months to secure a buyer, partly as a result of the European Union Referendum.

Chimney Cowl
The chimney was most easily dealt with: I ordered a sturdy cowl from the rather charmingly Victorian-sounding Nonfumo Flue Systems Limited of Stokenchurch, Bucks. The Internet saves an awful lot of chasing or phoning round. Access to the chimney was more difficult because it is necessarily the highest point of the house so as to dispel smoke effectively. My triple stage ladder is not quite long enough for access via the gable end but by roping a cat ladder to the roof on a dry, sunny morning, I was able to reach the chimney by ladder from the rear elevation. The cowl is designed to be secured by hook bolts, whose own weight drops them down inside the chimney, to be tightened in place by external wing nuts.



Wall copings
The garden wall, which forms the northern boundary, was originally the boundary of the kitchen garden at Elswick Lodge, opposite. This is the large, detached, late-Victorian house built by John Smalley, owner of the adjacent Elswick Mill. Grace’s Guide to UK industrial heritage lists cotton mills in Blackburn in 1891 and the Elswick Mill is stated as having 792 looms, more than the majority of individual mills in Blackburn at the time. The mill produced ‘fancys’, the name given to more complex, textured fabrics of a fancy weave, which required more complex looms.
The garden wall was built using a hard, dark red Accrington-type brick from a Blackburn brickworks, capped with a hollow, triangular-section glazed fire clay coping. Our side of the wall was pointed ten years’ ago but the copings were not re-bedded and all of the lateral joints were open, allowing water into the wall, which would eventually have caused problems. I would have liked to have used lime mortar, like the original wall, but it takes considerably longer to harden than modern Portland cement mortars and it is less suitable for use in cold, wet weather, requiring protection for much longer. I began to remove the copings, and hacked off the mortar from them and the wall, re-bedding and re-pointing in 1:1:6 Portland cement, hydrated lime and sand mortar mix using a bucket trowel and a finger trowel. After some trial and error, I decided to sponge the mortar joints clean to minimise the mortar residues and the later use of hydrochloric acid brick cleaner for cleaning off. This also produced a joint more similar to a weathered lime mortar joint in which the fine aggregate tends to be more visible. Imperfections in the shape of the copings made it impossible to achieve a completely level finish but the overall effect is quite pleasing and the throat moulds in the overhangs help shed water away from the surfaces of the wall. I found that creepers and many garden snails had colonised the interior of the coping blocks. I managed to complete the work on and off over about three weeks: the wall is 85 foot long and I could not work during heavy rain or when frosts were predicted.



Additional air bricks
Satisfying the request to provide additional air bricks to improve ventilation of the voids beneath the timber floors of the two ground floor reception rooms was more difficult. This was partly why I had not done the work in 2013, after I inserted insulation between the joists and to below-floor radiator and other pipework. There already were four air bricks in the flank walls but one is obscured by ivy and two are now behind kitchen units in the ground floor garage.  It was advisable to provide some more ventilation. The kitchen and lobby extend three quarters of the way along the rear of the house, two steps down from the reception rooms, so any vent in this stretch had to be internal but better than none at all. I cut out the equivalent of a single brick with a bolster chisel and fitted a standard, white hit-and-miss ventilation grille with an integral insect screen. Outside the back door I cut out a single engineering brick and its equivalent in the inner leaf of the cavity wall using a fine bolster chisel, a reciprocating saw and a long cold chisel. The joints in Accrington-type brick are very fine and it was difficult to remove a brick without some damage to the face of those adjacent. I mortared in a standard fire clay air brick, a close match for those already existing. They too appear to have been inserted after the original date of construction, 1905, perhaps a result of a building society survey in the 1970s on behalf of the Kershaws, from whom we bought the house.



This left the most difficult, front elevation, constructed in ashlar sandstone blocks, almost certainly from one of two quarries in the village that used to provide building stone. These blocks are about six inches deep. The first, in the bay window was removable, although not without difficulty, using the reciprocating saw and I managed to cut it, using an angle grinder and a bolster chisel but the rubble stone inner leaf was too deep for this. I hired a 110v Hilti breaker and created an air path. The block in the other location in the front wall of the sitting room could not be split in the same way as the first but the Hilti breaker proved more precise in stone cutting than I had expected and I was able to create a neat cut following the groove created by the angle grinder. The inner leaf was also broken through but creating an air path was more difficult as there are central heating pipes, insulation and wiring in this relatively congested location.



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